The idea for this recipe comes from the Catalan calçotada, an annual celebration of spring onions at which they’re charred over a fire and served with lots of romesco (and lots of wine). Tom McCorkle for The Washington Post; food styling by Gina Nistico

Every year about now, my heart skips a beat the first time I spy those gorgeous spring onions in farmers markets and grocery stores. You know the ones, I hope? They look like scallions that have gotten as swole as a tech bro.

And every year, I think to myself: Why am I not in Spain right now? Or, more accurately, why wasn’t I in Spain a month or two ago? That’s when restaurants in Catalonia host dinners celebrating calçots, their version of spring onions that are planted twice to bulk up their greens, too. At these calçotadas, the onions

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