Sour cherry jam, with its balance of sweet and sour, is best in this ricotta tart; some brands might specify Morello cherries on the label. If sour cherry jam is not available, good-quality strawberry jam is a better option than sweet cherry jam. Milk Street via AP

At Armando al Pantheon, a trattoria in Rome, meals often are punctuated with a slice of torta antica roma — a rustic tart inspired by the traditional Roman combination of ricotta and cherries.

It’s exceptionally light, with milky-sweet ricotta balanced by tangy, brightly hued fruit preserves. The base is a tender, buttery, almost cake-like crust, and the topping is a crumby mixture of the same composition. Sandwiched between is a layer of jam on a bed of ricotta dotted with poppy and sesame seeds.

In this recipe from our coo

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