I’ve spent plenty of flights wedged into economy seats, balancing plastic-topped trays on flimsy tables and managing sleep in fits between meal carts and elbow jabs. My expectations for in-flight dining have always been low — more about getting through it than savouring anything.

So when I boarded my Air France business class flight from Toronto to Paris and settled into a lie-flat seat for the first time, I didn’t expect much more than comfort. But then the linen napkins and warm towels appeared. Champagne was poured before takeoff. And a menu was placed in my hands.

It felt less like a routine flight and more like being quietly ushered into a fine-dining experience — one that just happened to be unfolding at 35,000 feet.

The current business class menu, which launched in spring 20

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