A lvis Huynh pretty much always knew he was queer, the same way he pretty much always knew we wanted to be a chef. The 31-year-old has taken winding and introspective journeys in both his identity and his career. Among other work, Huynh owns the Vietnamese Lao food pop-up Về Lại . “Về lại” means “return home,” a reference to the way Huynh’s parents ask him, “Chừng nào con về lại?” or, “When are you going to return home?” But it’s not a literal return home he’s striving for. Through food, community, and some impressive manifestation, Huynh has found joy and success here in Chicago, celebrating a homecoming to himself.

Huynh was born in Arlington, Virginia, and grew up alongside two sisters in Loudoun County. The D.C. suburb constantly ranks among the wealthiest counties in the U.S., b

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