Editor’s note: “Dispatches” are occasional snapshots of people, places, scenes or moments from around Georgia that our reporters come across. They aim to be immersive and aren’t always tied to a news event.

MACON — A red-lettered sign near the front door of Cox Cafe warns, “Compact Cars Only.” But there is no such parking. The space is blocked by a stone planter.

Besides, there are few such autos in this part of town. In the lunch hour, other spots ringing the restaurant and along roads surrounding it are stuffed with pickups, dump trucks, crew haulers.

The concrete-block edifice has walls painted white as hungry teeth. The facade screams, “Work boots required.” The thick metal door, red as a kidney bean, looks like it just might open to the sound of a secret knock.

The restaurant exud

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