At 4 p.m., the sun has already set for the day, and the Copenhagen sky is darkening to an inky blue. I pull my wool hat down and scarf tighter as I walk along the Østerbro waterfront, the wind continuing to whip around me. It’s the winter solstice, the darkest and shortest day of the year. Yet improbably, the Danes transform this bitterly cold season into one seemingly out of a fairy tale.

Christmas markets illuminate the capital city, impeccably blending a festive atmosphere with the storied Scandinavian essence of hygge—coziness, contentment, and mindful living. Street stands are shelved with steaming mugs of gløgg (mulled wine) as residents bike past along the glimmering canals. And as I pause and peer into shop windows, I catch an aromatic whiff that lures me along its scent trail.

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