Uniform grooves of dimensional natural wood wrap the centerpiece bar at Nonna Dora ‘s. It seems intentional. They mimic the ridged surface of a rigagnocchi, the simple wooden board that imprints the all-important grooves that help gnocchi and other pastas hold sauces. The plain, unfussy wooden tool used since Roman times shows that great food need not be complicated.

Situated in a bustling Sandy Springs strip mall, the small Italian restaurant has a spare, clean, minimal interior, with light tones and decor made from the organization of ingredients and plateware. There is a reserved chic here reflecting the understated refinement of the high-quality ingredients that drive the menu. Less is more.

A painted portrait of Nonna Dora looks down over everything. She is owner-chef Patrizio Ala

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