To understand Texas, one must visit El Paso and San Antonio. Both cities are important to Texas history—including Segundo Barrio and the Alamo , respectively—and to its food, from chile colorado to chile con carne and flaky tortillas to pillowy tortillas. Many forget, though, that burritos are also a big part of their culinary traditions, since tacos tend to get all the shine. Jorge Flores is here to remind us with Burritos Frontera , his pop-up specializing in bringing El Paso-Juárez- style burritos to San Antonio.

I visited the July pop-up, located at San Antonio Gold coffee shop, in the Freight Gallery and Studios, located near the King William Historic District. Flores started serving at 9 a.m., but by the time I got there, at 10:15, he had paused ordering so the kitchen could c

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