Koji Kamiya is a likeable 30-year-old who is doing a good job of building a world around his brand, which is focused on adolescent grunge and impressive fabric innovation. “I wanted to bring in a bit more sexiness this time,” he said as he flicked through some photos of Steven Tyler. The Aerosmith singer had been a big influence on the designer for this collection, and a dash of bohemian lustiness was duly sprinkled into Kamiya’s grungy universe.

This came through most obviously in the dress shirts—a first for the brand—which were made of floaty cupro or cotton-silk, and styled under faded MA-1 jackets, pulpy knitted cardigans, and bandana-printed denim. Elsewhere distressed jeans were stitched up with boro detailing, sometimes layered with denim wrap skirts (a fun Kamiya trademark), and

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