Potato salad, a signature summer dish, is defined by its maker. My grandmother’s salad was substantially swathed in mayo, while a German aunt crowned hers with crisped bacon and plenty of dill. My neighbor tosses in olives, tomatoes and peppers for a light, bright Italian twist.

It’s one of the easiest dishes to make, but success depends on a few basic tenets — starting with the right potato.

Choose small, firm, waxy potatoes — fingerling, Yukon gold, Yellow Finn or any of those mixed baby potatoes. These all hold their shape when cooked. Avoid russet potatoes; they’re too floury and fall apart. Cut the potatoes to the same size in halves or quarters before cooking to be sure they’re done at the same time.

Cook the potatoes in boiling water that is as salty as the sea. This ensures the

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