At first glance, designer ’s floral ring appears to cradle a shard of glass. But a closer look reveals a large, flat antique diamond, with delicate facets evoking ripples on water. It’s part of the designer’s debut collection, unveiled in the U.S. in June, that showcases rare diamonds in sculptural and quietly radical settings.

Hailing from a long line of diamond dealers, Kheni could easily have followed in his ancestors’ footsteps. Instead, after working with his family for five years, he chose a different path and relocated to Turkey in 2016 to explore new artistic horizons. During his time in Istanbul, he traded in antique diamonds, immersing himself in the city’s legacy of crafts and antiquities and training under an Armenian master jeweler. “He taught me how to make metal flow, how t

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