Where: 1235 Davie St., Vancouver

When: Lunch and dinner, Thursday to Saturday; dinner, Sunday to Wednesday

Info: 604-880-6989 | sainam.ca

At Sainam, there’s no dumbing down. At Angus An’s seventh restaurant, you get the real deal — authentic, unedited food from the Isaan region in northeast Thailand. “It’s the poorest region and the food is a lot more honest, robust, and rustic,” says owner and chef An. “First and foremost, I love the food of that region. It’s right up my alley, food that’s grilled, fried, fermented.”

When I reached An by phone, he and his business partner/wife Kate Auewattanakorn were in Toronto, in a sad-happy time of setting up their son, Aidan, for his first year of university. The couple had just recently opened Sainam on Davie Street, adding to their Full Hou

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