Sunn’s

New York City

“If you’re lucky, there will be scallops on the menu at Sunn’s,” said Ligaya Mishan in The New York Times . They’re exemplars of the enchantment of this tiny storefront in Chinatown, because chef Sunny Lee’s father dives for them in the chilly waters off Gloucester, Mass., and provides them to his daughter as a gift. Lee enhances the magic by tossing the raw scallops with fatty tuna, dark cherries, and white cloud-ear mushrooms in a color-conscious arrangement that’s at once pleasurably crunchy and spongy.

Her setup at Sunn’s is minimal: an induction burner, an oven, two rice cookers, and an under-counter fridge. Guests must share just six tables and eight stools. Lee’s menu is limited, too, “yet somehow there is a sense of abundance.” She stuffs dumplings with cr

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