The word 'Penywern' is a curious one. It's not an uncommon place name in Wales, given to various roads, and a village centred on a 19th century iron works near Merthyr Tydfil. Its meaning, so a random Google search tells me, is 'head of the alder-bog'. In other words, it's a pretty and delicate word that couldn't have a less romantic meaning if it tried.

But while its Welsh origins may be prosaic, Penywern Road in West London is anything but. This is the very heart of Earls Court, practiaclly backing on to the Tube station, at the epicentre of one of London's busiest places — a major junction of road, rail and Underground, where charming 18th century terraces weave between hotels and conference centres, and where traditional pubs with booze-stained carpets sit alongside sophisticated rest

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