I’ve always been fascinated by any form of preserving. To take something living and prevent it from dying — stopping time, rot. I’m in love with its ancientness and importance.

No other form of cookery embodies the symbiotic relationship we once had with nature and the seasons. Preserving was a beautifully resourceful craft, born out of necessity, out of humble respect and out of a temporal understanding of our environment and what it took to survive within it. I don’t make this chutney to survive (things have changed), but I can take part of the summer deep into winter, in a glass jar.

(Image credit: Gill Meller)

Ingredients

500g runner beans, stringy veins removed, and cut into 1cm pieces

1kg Bramley apples, peeled, quartered, cored and roughly chopped

500g ripe tomatoes, roughly c

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