Lisbon has a habit of weaving its way into every conversation: the answer to ‘I want to do a city break, but where should I go?, and the place that everyone with a digital nomad visa gravitates towards. Some are lured in by scenery that looks like a photoshoot in a glossy magazine — featuring cobbled streets, red terracotta roofs and endless blue skies. For others, it is the vibrant food scene, where the day starts with a bica (espresso) and a warm, cinnamon-dusted pastel de nata , and finishes with aromatic bowls of coriander-flecked clams in a bougainvillea-filled square, underneath a starry sky.

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For me it is the light, a special kind that dances on the River Tagus and caresses faded ochre façades. It uplifts every moment of every day until, that is, go

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