Locally known as ilish , the Hilsa fish is as much ritual as repast in West Bengal — a customary offering to Maa Durga on Ashtami. This season, though, low supplies and steep prices have pushed the delicacy beyond the grasp of many middle-class households.

So why has this festival staple turned into a luxury item?

Retail Hilsa prices have roughly doubled over the past three years — from about Rs 1,500/kg to Rs 2,500/kg and above this season, according to retail sellers in Kolkata’s fish markets.

The Hilsa shortage

The humble Hilsa made headlines after Bangladesh briefly banned exports during the Durga Puja celebrations last year. Later, around 3,000 tonnes were cleared for exports under pressure from traders on both sides but the entire quota couldn’t be imported. This year too, impo

See Full Page