Sixty years ago today, the Indonesian army seized power and began a campaign of mass murder to annihilate the country’s left. Relatives of the victims are still fighting against a culture of amnesia about one of the century’s bloodiest massacres.

Behind a low wall on a traffic-choked stretch of Denpasar’s east side, a small courtyard insists that Bali’s famous “paradise” has a history. And that history is troubled.

On a brick wall is a simple injunction — “Forgive but never forget” — and in the center stands a white bust of a schoolteacher, I Gusti Made Raka, who was murdered in the wave of anti-communist killings that swept the island in late 1965 and early 1966. This is Taman 65, a family-made memorial built on the site of a home razed by a mob. With its punk DIY attitude, it is one of

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