New York Times' new food critic reviewed Emeril's in New Orleans. Here's what she thought.

E.J. Lagasse's revamped tasting menu version of his father Emeril Lagasse's flagship restaurant, Emeril's, has earned accolades for refining the spirit of the classic downtown New Orleans eatery.

The new Emeril's was the second New Orleans restaurant to be reviewed by one of the The New York Times' new co-chief restaurant critics — and Tejal Rao gave it three stars, or "excellent."

"The chef E.J. Lagasse has remade Emeril’s as an extravagance where jackets are recommended and dinner is a bouncy, often delicious, occasionally self-referential but utterly charming ride through the flavors of New Orleans," Rao wrote.

In June, The Times announced that Rao and Ligaya Mishan would both serve as the paper's chief food critics and restaurant coverage would expand nationwide.

Rao's