In fashion at the moment, as seen on catwalks: frills, corsets, big shoulder pads, and "naked dresses". Out of fashion: employing women as chief designers.

In the most recent Spring-Summer 2026 womenswear Fashion Weeks in Paris and Milan, the effects of a huge reshuffle at the top of the European luxury clothing industry were plain to see.

From Chanel, Dior, Celine, Balenciaga, Loewe to Jean Paul Gaultier, around 10 leading labels unveiled debut collections from new artistic directors.

In Milan, heavyhitters Gucci, Versace and Bottega Veneta spotlighted freshly appointed designers too.

On only one occasion, the new face taking the bow and applause at the end was a woman -- Britain's Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta -- while Matthieu Blazy at Chanel and Jonathan Anderson at Dior both re

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