The sweet aroma of traditional ‘nethi putharekulu’ (paper sweet) wafts through the air in Atreyapuram mandal of Dr. B.R. Ambedkar Konaseema district. Women making melt-in-your-mouth sweets in small sheds and huts beside their homes, welcoming visitors with boards titled ‘nethi putharekulu ammabadunu’ (meaning ‘ghee putharekulu are sold here’), are a common sight in villages like Atreyapuram, Ryali, Vasantawada, Bobbarlanka, Lolla, Velcheru, and others.

“There is no festival or celebration without our putharekulu on the plate. ‘Kotha pellikoduku’ (bridegroom) also has to taste ‘nethi putharekulu’ during his first visit to the bride’s house,” the women, who were busy making ‘Atreyapuram Putharekulu’—which earned the GI (Geographical Indication) tag two years ago —expressed their pride in

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