In the heart of southern India’s centuries-old textile industry, tens of millions of garment workers spin cotton fibers into yarn each year.
They then dye large swaths of that yarn a dusty indigo hue before weaving it into a denim fabric that will eventually be cut and sewn into your favorite pair of light-washed low-rise jeans. They’re the kind that fit in that particular way so that you too can look like a member of the girl group Katseye, decked out in Gap denim at a cost of $90 apiece. Made in India.
But after President Donald Trump’s 50 percent tariff on Indian goods went into effect this August, those $90 jeans effectively now have to pay a $45 toll just to get into the United States.
That is, if India — the world’s second-largest textile manufacturer — gets to make them at all.

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