One of the most beautiful high-altitude passes in Himachal Pradesh, Chandrakhani, is the traditional gateway to the state’s most famous and mysterious village: Malana. Along with its twin, the Rasol pass, it also connects the valleys of the Beas and Parbati rivers.

The trek begins from the tiny hamlet of Rumsu (1,800m), 6 km above the historical village of Naggar on the left bank of the Beas, 20 km below Manali. It is well worth spending a few hours in Naggar and visiting its two landmarks. Naggar Castle is a well-preserved building from where the kings of Kullu ruled before they shifted to Kullu town; it then became the residence of the British Resident, and today is a hotel. The second landmark is the Roerich art gallery, dedicated to the paintings of this legendary Russian artist with

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