CLEVELAND, Ohio — The turkey sitting on your Thanksgiving table says a lot about how food has changed over the past century.

Most Americans will carve into a modern, broad-breasted bird — the product of decades of breeding for efficiency and convenience.

Local farmer and Ohio City Provisions owner Trevor Clatterbuck is raising a different kind of turkey — one with old-fashioned genetics. That means the bird has a leaner build and a more natural life.

“Heritage birds are what turkeys used to be before we improved them for speed and size,” Clatterbuck said.

“Commercial producers have made them grow faster, eat less and deliver more breast meat because that’s what consumers have been trained to want.”

The result is the modern commercial turkey: a rapid-growing, broad-breasted bird that c

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