Mention to any gem-world insider, and you’ll get a knowing nod. The French-born jeweler was a true pioneer, as obsessed with the hunt as he was with the craft. At age 18, months before World War II, he fled to Brazil, in search of safety and a new life. He found both—by scouring the country for precious treasures, he became a gem-hunter who, quite literally, left no stone unturned. Now, Sauer’s signature jewels come to the by Robb Report .

In the 1950s, Sauer made headlines with an 80-pound aquamarine he christened Martha Rocha, after the then Miss Brazil. Its vivid blue reminded him of her eyes, he said. Carved into 50,000 carats of jewels, the aquamarine became a global ambassador for Brazilian craftsmanship, cementing both the country’s reputation for fine gems and Sauer’s name in th

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