The streets were scrubbed clean and banners fluttered, welcoming Sikh pilgrims on Wednesday to the Pakistani city where the founder of their faith was born 556 years ago, now brimming with devotion and hope.

Many have come from neighbouring India in the first major pilgrimage to cross into Pakistan since deadly clashes in May closed the land border between the nuclear-armed neighbours.

"We were worried about what the environment would be like on the Pakistan side and how people would treat us," 46-year-old Inderjit Kaur told AFP.

"But it has been lovely. We were given a warm welcome."

Officials say around 40,000 worshippers gathered at the shrine to Sikhism founder Guru Nanak in Nankana Sahib to mark the anniversary of his birth in the city in 1469.

Inside the shrine complex, marigold

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