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Think about how difficult cooking from a cookbook from another culture was as little as 10 years ago. Once in a while, you could get your hands on a standout, but the food you could make with it could feel like a compromise with too many substitutions and ingredients you just couldn’t find without great effort, or at all.

I noticed a shift in the past few years that crystallized a few months ago when I needed some amba for a broiled eggplant dish in Michael Solomonov’s Zahav Home . Amazon didn’t carry a quantity of the fermented mango paste at a price that seemed reasonable, but the book po

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