Within the walls of fortified Mdina – known as the Silent City – the Xara Palace holds a privileged position on a corner of cobbles by an ancient Benedictine convent. The car-free citadel in central Malta is a 35-minute drive from the airport, and well served by buses, taxis and tourist trains to discover Rabat and Valletta. As one of only two hotels in the country’s former capital, guests are free to play nobility at night, roaming Mdina without the cruise crowds.

The converted 17th-century palazzo is less hotel, more museum – full of finery, but still homely. Delicately updated to indulge modern comforts, the Relais & Chateaux property retains its former palatial standing, paying homage to its history with splashes of original art atop Mdina’s groomed gardens.

You’ll find nods to the

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