Mexico’s female rodeo culture has been challenging gender norms for decades. But the job isn’t done

What does a cowgirl look like? For some, the question may call forth images of flanneled shirts, Stetson hats and bootcut jeans. But in escaramuza, the all-female equestrian sport imported by the US from Mexico, the answer is a little different.

Before every escaramuza competition, each team lines up to have its uniforms measured. Strict guidelines dictate that the riders’ tiered Victoriana dresses, often vivid in color and trimmed with lace, must be long enough to cover their horses’ haunches. Glitter and beading are prohibited, but any accessories from earrings to brooches must match. Boots, too, should be identical throughout a team. Under each dress is a petticoat layer, as well as a pair of bloomers — both are to be steamed. One missing underlayer can disqualify the entire squad.

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