In Jordan, community is at the heart of tourism (Picture: Karen Edwards)

Suleiman Hasaseen’s eyes glisten as he tells me about growing up in Feynan.

We’re perched on a flat rock on top of a sandstone escarpment, sharing ‘Bedouin tea’ – a sweet black brew with hints of cinnamon and cardamom. As we chat, the peach-coloured sun dips beneath the horizon.

‘I was born just a hundred metres away from here,’ he explains. ‘This is my backyard, and I feel very lucky.’

With mustard and red sandstone hills extending as far as the eye can see, the Dana Biosphere Reserve is exactly how you might imagine a Jordanian desert landscape to be.

A single tarmac road snakes through the landscape, several dusty tracks and hiking paths criss-crossing the valleys. Here, there are creatures you can find few ot

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