Chef Anthony Lombardo’s resume is full of big swings. In 2018, after cooking at fine Italian restaurants in metro Detroit, Washington, D.C., and Italy, the provenance of the cuisine itself, Lombardo opened SheWolf, an ode to Roman fare in Midtown Detroit.

SheWolf was an ambitious venture for the first-time restaurateur, with its built-in pastificio, where chefs would mill the grains for each pasta dish and bread in house. While some chefs boast about making pastas by hand, at SheWolf, Lombardo became an evangelist for top-quality flour, spreading the gospel by wielding al dente pastas as scratchy as they come, swathed in butter and pecorino, zippy tomato hunks and unctuous bone marrow.

See Full Page