The gateway to Spain ’s sun-drenched Costa del Sol, Málaga is visited by over 20 million tourists each year — but most see nothing but the airport.

Its reputation as a transit stop for Andalusia’s golden beaches means many miss out on what this city really is: the region’s most vibrant cultural hub, loved for its museums, elegant architecture, and top-notch tapas.

The birthplace of Pablo Picasso, Málaga’s marble-tiled streets are steeped in history.

The city was founded by the Phoenicians some 2,700 years ago (making it one of the oldest in the world), and it’s since been ruled by everyone from the Moors to the Romans.

After years of turning right at arrivals and heading south along the coast, I finally got around to staying in Málaga in the summer of 2022.

I’ve returned three t

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