It is a pattern we see repeatedly. At times of austerity and economic hardship: people crave luxury, colour and escapism. During the Great Depression we saw the rise of jazz, dancehalls and art deco glamour, while the World War II ushered in an era of escapist, technicolour movies filled with flights of fancy. Now in the grips of a seemingly endless cost-of-living crisis, London’s wine lovers are craving frivolity and entertainment.

Members’ club 67 Pall Mall recently released its fine wine report, and its members showed no sign of curbing their spending. Premium Burgundy was still top of the club’s orders and a third said the rising price of wine had no impact on their drinking habits, More than half of members claimed their household spend on wine was between £500-£3,000 a month.

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