Gianfranco Ferré, Dior ’s creative director from 1989 to 1997, designed a perfectly structured square bag with rounded handles that he affectionately called "chouchou", meaning "favourite". Its quilted "cannage" stitching echoed the Napoleon III chairs used at Dior’s couture shows, while gold charms spelling "Dior" added symbolic luck.

In 1995, Bernadette Chirac asked Gianfranco to help select a gift for Diana, Princess of Wales , during her visit to Paris for an exhibition of works by Paul Cézanne. The bag was chosen, and Diana wore it immediately.

Back in London, Diana ordered several versions, carrying them to appearances – from a Liverpool hospital opening to the 1996 Met Gala.

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Soon after, the design was renamed the Lady Dior. Its allure has endured, reimagined b

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