You might imagine that most egg tarts are relatively indistinguishable , with their pastry cups and plain, sunglow-colored custard filling. You wouldn’t necessarily expect the treats to get remixed into dozens of different flavors.

That hasn’t stopped A&M Pâtisserie . The San José–based bakery pop-up sells a whopping eighteen different egg tart flavors, many of them inspired by various Asian cuisines. At a makers’ market at the Santa Clara Convention Center in November, a perpetual line of at least fifty customers swarmed the A&M booth for hours, everyone scanning the banner menu to decide which of the palm-sized egg tarts to order. A wide range of unconventional toppings included things like toasted marshmallows, flame-kissed corn kernels, milk crumbs and caramelized banana slices.

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