Great Neck’s Matsuya has revived in an unlikely location: inside the bustling Delicacies Gourmet in Roslyn, bringing yet another sushi option to the waterfront village.

A yellow curtain separates the deli from Matsuya's sit-down dining area, but the shared space is still decidedly more deli than restaurant. Televisions at full blast tussle with light dinner jazz music for acoustic supremacy. Locals dash in to order Boars Head heroes as lavish plates of sashimi land on the tables. But the sushi is as good as it was in Great Neck, where Matsuya opened in 1996.

The short menu features starter plates like gyoza ($9.50) and vegetarian spring rolls ($9.50), yellowtail jalapeño sashimi ($18.50), spicy tuna crispy rice ($19.50) and Matsuya’s sashimi pizza — a crispy flatbread loaded with jalapeñ

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