What burns bright and cold at the same time? The baked Alaska—a dessert of toasty meringue shielding ice cream and cake from open flame —of course. And right now, the dish is having a moment.

Until recently, like a hot pink Motorola Razr or a Juicy Couture tracksuit phase, the baked Alaska was one of those things people remembered vividly, but couldn’t quite explain. But perhaps it’s no surprise that a dish once synonymous with the brash grandeur of the Gilded Age has found new resonance in an era of gold-dusted, caviar-studded soft serve, and martinis priced like entrées .

The original baked Alaska dates to 1876, when chef Charles Ranhofer of Delmonico’s in New York City served a version made with banana ice cream and walnut spice cake he initially dubbed Alaska, Florida. It was lik

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