As Fartun Hashi Warsame serves cardamom-spiced tea at her shop, she often overhears worried chatter about the al-Shabaab militants closing in on Mogadishu.

If customers notice she is listening, they drop their voices.

Speculating about whether al-Shabaab might reach Somalia’s capital, or speaking about the government’s failings, are dangerous topics, even if they are commonplace.

In a city full of secret police, residents never know who might be listening.

“Everybody senses it: the war is raging outside Mogadishu and al-Shabaab keep getting closer,” Mrs Warsame says. “If al-Shabaab keep taking territory, then it’s obvious that the same fate will await Mogadishu.

“Surveillance is everywhere, but sometimes you can’t hold back from the obvious. Everybody is aware of the situation and m

See Full Page