Ask a kid what they would do if they were a grown-up for a day, and you’ll probably find their ambitions are in line with their size – more likely to be “stay up till midnight”, or “eat a ton of sweets” than go to space, say, or broker world peace. That’s because life is small when you are too, meaning modest ambitions feel radical.

And while you would hope that, by the time a given child actually grows into that longed-for autonomy, their dreams would have grown alongside them, that doesn’t seem to be the case for my fellow millennials. What do we want, now that we’ve got (some) disposable income, even children of our own? The same snacks we ate in primary school, please!

At least, that’s what the sudden rash of nostalgic food rebrands would seem to suggest. Everything from Nik Naks to

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