Dogon
Washington, D.C.
"How do you follow up a blockbuster?" asked Ligaya Mishan in The New York Times . Three years ago, Kwame Onwuachi conquered New York City with Tatiana, a celebration of the food of the Black diaspora as he'd known it while growing up in the Bronx. With his grand second act, Dogon (pronounced DOE-gon), "the narrative has shifted," giving D.C. a fine-dining celebration of the diaspora that occasionally showcases local treasures.
The name refers to the Dogon people, the West African ancestors of 18th-century astronomer Benjamin Banneker, who helped draw the boundaries of the nation's capital. Onwuachi's carrot tigua, a peanut stew, pays direct tribute to Banneker's forebears. Meanwhile, his cornbread, made with a berbere-spiced chickpea butter, nods to D.C.'s large