Ionce overheard that the food at Lori Jayne was best described as “bar food as big as your definition of it.” While I can’t recall where I heard it, the sentiment is certainly fitting as Sam Braverman’s version of the genre has so far included Korean-fried chicken glazed with soy-garlic and beef tallow to minced Gulf shrimp spread over hunks of milk bread. And viral steak frites? Don’t even get us started. But you see, this is just how Braverman cooks, regardless of whether he’s hawking food in his driveway or in the back of a Bushwick-esque dive. Because the simple fact is Braverman cooks how he likes to eat, an ethos he’s carried since his first pop-up named SITLE, which simply stood for Shit I Like To Eat.

“If it doesn’t excite us, regardless of the background or techniques inv

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