All the doom and gloom currently pervading the wine industry obscures one crucial fact: More great wine than ever before is available today from all corners of the wine-producing world.

Rather than bemoan the current state of the world, I want to take an opportunity to celebrate 10 under-sung California producers who are doing the work, making terrific wines and who deserve to be better appreciated.

These are not famous producers who charge hundreds of dollars a bottle, nor are they wealthy enthusiasts who, having succeeded in one business, have turned to wine as a lifestyle investment. These are scrappy individuals who mostly can't afford vineyards or wineries. They are piecing together businesses that allow them to make the sorts of wines they love.

Most can't make a living on their l

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