Food and chaos.

It’s what Mary Allison Wright remembers of her childhood family reunions near their hometown of Chattanooga, Tenn., with her younger brother, John David Wright.

“We would run around with our cousins and cause absolute chaos,” she said.

Fast forward to today, and food still dominates the lives of the Wrights. And the chaos? Well, it’s more about managing it, or massaging it, than letting it go unchecked.

The siblings, along with Mary’s husband, McLain Hedges, have run a bottle shop, a barbecue pop-up and a bar, Yacht Club, all in Denver. Fresh off a James Beard Award nomination for Outstanding Professionals in Cocktail Service for Yacht Club’s awe-inspiring drinks, they opened Rougarou, 2844 Welton St., a Southern restaurant, last month in Five Points, just feet away

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