Founder and designer Zane Li made noise with his runway show debut in New York — the figurative and literal kind. The Chinese-born designer — still early in his career with only three womenswear collections under his belt — kept up the momentum through inventive but impeccably functional designs for this season.

Referencing sound as what set the collection into motion, as Li explored the effects of hearing familiar sounds, like the rustle of a fabric or the swish of a skirt in motion, that elicit a memory, a certain emotion or remembrance of a garment — what Li refers to as archetypes. These archetypes, such as a rain coat, can be worn together and layered, creating a complex composition of more than just clothes but a narrative of one’s story.

“By one motion, one movement, you can chang

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