Dante’s Beach, Ravenna

I went up to her and got straight to the point: ‘What are you using for bait?’ I say ‘her’ but you never know round here. We live a mile inland from one of the last unspoiled stretches of Adriatic coast, part of which was stolen several decades ago by highly trained nudists. The nudists, who seem to be mostly men, attract several fringe groups, such as trans women (men who identify as women). One of the best-known was christened Cesare but is now a peroxide blonde called Cesarea. ‘She’ is taller than anyone else in the village apart from me and has enormous hands.

Besides, it is not exactly every day you come across a real woman fishing, is it? But there ‘she’ sat on a fold-up stool in front of her rod, which was perched on a nice little tripod, the sign of a serio

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