Cansano Italian Restaurant recently dropped steakhouse from its name, although the word still crops up online and other places; it likely won’t be missed. After all, the menu, with only three steak offerings, has always been focused on Italian cuisine.

And what a focus it is!

From fresh pastas and sauces to innovative spins on classic dishes, meals here are a treat. Excellent service and industrial chic décor also contribute a fine dining experience.

We started with arancini allo zafferano ($15). Three breaded and lightly fried, golden-crusted orbs, the size of golf balls, adorned with wine-red cherry tomatoes and ribbons of fresh basil, were placed on splotches of orange tarragon aioli. Many arancini are thick with rice with cheese hidden in their center. Cansano’s golden-crusted versi

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