“Here we say ‘Gavi lento’ – lento means slow in Italian,” says Ali Timis, Italian-Romanian sommelier at Locanda La Raia , an estate, hotel and restaurant tucked into Italy’s Gavi region.

Gavi is the name of both a small town of around 4,500 people and the surrounding wine-making area. It is situated in south-east Piedmont , where the rolling hills are dotted with vineyards and villages of stone houses and terracotta roofs.

Its allure is not unlike Tuscany’s, yet it is much quieter and its tourism industry is less developed. It takes me back to my first visit to Chiantishire – a nickname for an area of Tuscany loved by well-heeled British holidaymakers – more than 30 years ago.

“We like to take life slowly, soulfully and drink everything in,” adds Timis, as he gestures to a straw-c

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