Is Oktoberfest the new start of the winter holiday season? It would seem less absurd if Halloween decorations weren’t in stores before Labor Day, right? So I mused while trying some Inglehoffer mustard with weißwurst, soft pretzel and sauerkraut at the store—and then a memory from last year flooded back.

Beaverton Foods, the company behind Inglehoffer and its sister labels including Beaver Brand, sent me a sampler last year celebrating its 95th anniversary that included its cream-style horseradish (the first shelf-stable recipe), two seafood sauces and four mustards. One caught my eye, a red-purple cranberry mustard designed to enhance Thanksgiving leftovers or zhuzh up a non-festive turkey sandwich.

“This looks disgusting,” I thought to myself at the time. “I have to try it.”

Last year

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