MILAN — The Jil Sander silhouettes for next spring and summer previewed Wednesday during Milan Fashion Week were light, crisp and inviting, broken by subtle flashes of skin that gaped only briefly.

The brand’s new creative director Simone Bellotti returned the runway show to the brand’s modernist headquarters overlooking the historic Sforzesco Castle -- part of his studious approach to unlocking the tailoring and structure behind Jil Sander’s minimalist codes. Bellotti made it look easy.

Coats and jackets held their shape as if suspended on the frame, curved for her, or straight for unisex looks. Hidden embroidery cinched coats, jackets and shirts at the waist with origami-like folds. Body hugging knits tucked into double-faced leather skirts featuring a slight peek-a-boo slit across the

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