In one of the pivotal moments from the short film revealing Demna Gvasalia ’s first collection for Gucci , Edward Norton asks Demi Moore what she would do if she were in a room with a tiger. He urges Moore, the matriarch of a fictional family, to surrender — and let the tiger devour her.

This could be a metaphor for the Italian fashion house itself, threatened by a raft of fierce rivals, shifting tastes, and pressure on the middle-class customers who catapulted the brand to spectacular success almost a decade ago.

Gucci owner Kering SA is far from capitulating. With a new group chief executive officer, Luca de Meo, a fresh CEO at Gucci, Francesca Bellettini, and the appointment of Demna as the brand’s creative director, the company is fighting to make Gucci relevant again.

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